Ninh Binh: What To Do, Where to Stay & Honest Tips
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When I arrived in Vietnam, I had never heard of Ninh Binh. But once I did, I couldn’t believe it had evaded all my travel research.
I was blown away by the images of people being rowed down stunning rivers surrounded on all sides by towering limestone cliffs. It looked like an absolute paradise.
To me, it looked like Ha Long Bay, but on land, which is what it is sometimes called!
After visiting, I can say that Ninh Binh is definitely blessed with some mind-blowing natural beauty. But I am sorry to say that Ninh Binh is far from an untouched paradise.
During our time in Ninh Binh, we checked out of one guesthouse because it was next to a huge concrete factory.
We also encountered quite a few tourist scams and unfriendly locals that left a bit of a bad taste in our mouths.
But we also met some very friendly locals and saw some of the most breathtaking scenery in the whole of Vietnam.
I think that Ninh Binh is an amazing place, but you should just know that before you arrive, it is far from perfect.
We spent 4 days cycling around the beautiful limestone cliffs, going on bike rides and hiking to viewpoints.
In this guide, you will learn
- The best things to do in Ninh Binh
- What not to do
- Where to stay
- Honest pros and cons from our own trip
Ninh Binh vs Tam Coc
When researching visiting Ninh Binh, I was a little confused. Because everyone said they stayed in Tam Coc, but I never heard anyone say they stayed in Ninh Binh.
This is because Ninh Binh is the province where the limestone cliffs are located, and the name of the large city nearby. But Tam Coc is the name of the tourist town closest to the UNESCO-protected nature reserve.
So just to clear up any confusion, when you are looking for somewhere to stay. You will either want to stay in Tam Coc or Trang An.
- Ninh Binh = the province, and also the main city
- Trang An Landscape Complex = the protected UNESCO area full of spectacular cliffs and rivers
- Tam Coc = the main tourist town, full of hotels and restaurants
The 7 Best Things To Do In Ninh Binh
1. Take The Trang An Boat Tour: Just Be Prepared
One absolute must-do while you are in Ninh Binh is to go on a boat tour. This is one of the best ways to experience the beautiful landscapes and steep limestone cliffs.
The boats will take you through caves into areas that can only be explored by boat. So you will really be missing out on the best landscapes if you do not take a tour.
Seeing videos of this boat ride was one of the main reasons I was motivated to go to Ninh Binh. But if you base the expectations of your boat trip from carefully manicured drone footage on YouTube, you may be a little disappointed.
It is for sure an attraction that you can have one of those Instagram vs reality moments.
The scenery is incredible, but there are two main problems. Unfriendly locals steering the boats who may aggressively ask for tips, and the sheer number of people.
In terms of the number of people, I would advise going as early or as late as possible. We went during the middle of the day because we never had good weather in the morning.
This was peak tourist time, and it mean’t at some areas we there was a sea of bright orange lifejackets from all the boats. It really takes away from the natural beauty, plus it can mean that your boat may get stuck in big lines entering and exiting caves.
To avoid the unfriendly locals, I recommend taking the Trang An boat tour and not the Tam Coc boat tour. The Tam Coc boat tour has a much worse reputation, with the local guides demanding tips from the guests. Some reviews said their guide refused to row until they gave them a tip.
At the Trang An boat ride, it is more expensive, but you are much less likely to be harassed for tips. We did not tip our guide because she was not friendly, and the trip was already fairly expensive, and she definitely was not happy!
So I recommend taking the Trang An boat, and expect that your guide may be a little pushy for a tip. Then you can just sit back and enjoy the views.
One of my unexpected highlights of the boat trip was exploring the caves. One cave we went through was over 1 km long! You are underground forever, then you exit the cave to some of the most beautiful views ever.
If you want a more detailed guide about the Trang An Boat ride, including what time to go and which route to pick, read our Trang An Boat Tour Guide here.
2. Hike To The Hang Mua Lookout At Sunrise To Beat The Crowds
Climbing up to the Hang Mua lookout is another must-do in Ninh Binh. The views from the top are spectacular, and I almost enjoyed it more than the Trang An boat ride.
The key to the best experience, in my opinion, is to visit the Hang Mua viewpoint at sunrise It is incredibly popular to go at sunset, but there are so many more people that it looks like a nightmare.
So do yourself a favour and get there early. You will have the same golden skies, just without the massive crowds.
We are early risers, so I didn’t even have to get up any earlier to make it for sunrise.
But I am sure glad that I am an early riser because the views from the lookout at sunrise are incredible.
It was so beautiful to watch the golden glow slowly reveal the sea of limestone mountain tops. Plus, it was all the more peaceful because there was only a handful of other people there, so we could enjoy the views peacefully.
Tickets cost 100,000 VND (about $4 USD). If you arrive by bike or scooter, you’ll also need to pay 5,000 or 10,000 VND for parking.
TIP: There are often ladies standing out on the road trying to make you park earlier down the road to the lookout and charging more. My advice is to drive past them and park as close to the entrance as you can.
3. Explore Ninh Binh By Bike: My Favourite Thing To Do
One of our favourite things to do in Ninh Binh was simply riding a bike around.
One problem with the boat rides and the lookouts is that they can be packed with tourists.
But if you jump on a bike, you can easily find yourself in spectacular areas, corners with almost no one else around.
I also prefer riding a bike over a scooter because you can experience what is going on around you so much more clearly, like the sounds of birds. The noise of the scooter really takes away from the atmosphere.
Rule Number One in touristy locations. Ride a bike or walk just a little bit further from where tourist buses can reach, and there will be barely anyone. Most tourists are lazy!
If you are thinking of cycling in Tam Coc, there are plenty of great cycling routes. One of our favourites was to cycle past the Water Loop pin on Google Maps – an amazing spot for sunset.
If you cycle past early in the day, you can also visit the Buffalo Cave, where you can feed ducks.
After the cave, I recommend following the road to Den Voi Temple. The temple is nothing special, but it is a beautiful road with a few nice restaurants if you want to stop for a drink or something to eat.
Another route that we enjoyed biking on was towards Thung Sen Tam Coc Glamping & Restaurant. We didn’t eat at the restaurant, but the roads heading towards that direction are beautiful, and it is great to just wander around on your bike and take in the scenery.
4. Van Long Nature Reserve: For A Quieter Boat Trip
If you are looking for a peaceful alternative to the busy Trang An and Tam Coc tours, then head to Van Long Nature Reserve.
It takes about 40 minutes to get there from Tam Coc. So you will either have to rent a scooter or take a Grab.
While the scenery at Van Long is not as spectacular as that at Trang An, the major benefit is that it is much quieter.
You also have the chance to see some rare monkeys on this boat ride, too, if you are lucky.
The ticket for the tour costs 100,000 VND per person, and the tour lasts for 1.5 hours. To buy the ticket, drive to this google pin.
We drove our scooter out to Van Long, and it is a beautiful area. We decided not to do the tour because we had already done so many activities in the last few days.
If you like cruising around on a scooter, it is worth heading up there and just exploring the area.
Just be prepared for the scooter ride on the way to Van Long, which is not the prettiest in parts. In some areas, we passed through relaxed, pretty Vietnamese villages. But at other points, we were also on roads surrounded by factories and big trucks.
5. Enjoy Sunset Drinks Over The Rice Fields of Ninh Binh
If you have clear skies, then I highly recommend heading over to Nháºt linh for dinner or drinks and while you watch the sun go down.
The restaurant has seats lined up along the edge of ricefields with one of the best views in Ninh Binh.
When we visited, the rice fields were flooded, and it created the most incredible reflections on the water.
You will not have the reflections at all times of the year. But I think no matter what state the rice fields are in, it will be a beautiful spot to take in the sunset and finish your day of sightseeing.
7. A Quirky Side Trip To Ninh Binh City
While we were in Tam Coc, we couldn’t find any good pho. So we decided to drive into the main town of Ninh Binh.
Luckily, we found a great pho shop called Pho An, which I recommend if you want some good pho in Ninh Binh.
But on the way, we spotted some huge European-style buildings that looked super out of place. They almost looked like a church you would see in downtown Vienna, so we had to check them out.
Once we arrived, it was bizarre. A large open area filled with strange, imitation European-style churches, mansions or office buildings. We have no idea what they are actually used for!
Apparently, rich Vietnamese like to build European-style buildings to show off their money.
I have included this on the list just for those of you who like to have a look at quirky, unusual stuff. We love checking this type of stuff out. But if it doesn’t interest you, then I would give it a skip.
What Not To Do In Ninh Binh
Bai Ding Pagoda
While looking for things to do in Ninh Binh, we came across the Bai Ding Pagoda. It had thousands of reviews and a high score on Google.
So we thought it might be worth checking out. But after looking at the reviews more closely, I would recommend staying away.
The temple complex was only built very recently and was made primarily for tourism.
Apparently, when you arrive, they make you park miles away from the entrance, and you are forced to pay a lot of money for an electric shuttle to the entrance.
Some people love the temple. But to me, it looks like another tacky tourist attraction that they love to make in Vietnam.
Skip Bich Dong Pagoda
I have included the Bich Dong Pagoda because it is something that most people will want to do. But to be honest, we did not even go in!
When we arrived at the car park, a lady tried to overcharge us for parking. At that time, we were sick of people trying to scam us, so we just left.
But I am sure if we had haggled, they would have given it to us for the right price. We are just not hagglers.
The temple is carved into the side of a mountain and looks quite interesting, and the entrance is free. You just have to pay for parking, and that cost depends on who is at the entrance when you arrive.
TIP: If you are not overly interested in touristy temples like me, there are lots of small tombs and temples scattered all over Ninh Binh. So just cruise around and stop whenever you feel the urge.
Where To Eat In Ninh Binh
I have to be honest, I was not overly impressed with the food that we ate in Tam Coc.
We had bad Pho and bad Banh Mi, which is not a good sign when you are in Vietnam!
However, we did find one solid option. Thảo Béo Restaurant Bar does typical Vietnamese food with good portions for a reasonable price. It’s not the best food in the world, but it does the job.
If you also want a decent Banh Mi, you can head Banh Mi Lady Stall. They are good if you just want something to fill you up and you get quite a bit of avocado. But in terms of flavour, I do not think they come close to the Banh Mi in Hoi An.
I am sure there are other good options in town, we just were not impressed by what we tried. So, I only wanted to recommend what we actually liked!
Where to Stay in Ninh Binh (Is Tam Coc Or Trang An Better?)
The first tip for staying in Ninh Binh is that you do not actually want to stay in Ninh Binh!
Instead, you will want to stay in Tam Coc or Trang An, which are the two areas located next to the natural landscapes.
Tam Coc is the better option if you want to be near all the restaurants and bars. But Trang An will be the better option if you want accommodation that is quieter and closer to nature.
Tam Coc: Best To Be Close To The Action
Tam Coc is the main tourist hub of Ninh Binh. Here you will find plenty of guesthouses, bars, and restaurants. It’s the best option if you want everything to be in walking distance.
- Pros: central, lots of options to eat and great for meeting other travellers
- Cons: noisy, busy and feels like a generic backpacker town.
Budget Pick In Tam Coc: We stayed at Nam Thung Tam Coco Homesta some bungalows run by a super friendly family that are quiet and walking distance to the main street. They also have one of the cutest dogs you will ever meet! Which is always a bonus.
Trang An: Best To Be Closer To Nature
If you want some peace and quiet, then your best option may be to stay near the Trang An boat ride.
You will be surrounded by nature. The only negative is that you will have to travel further for restaurants, bars, etc.
- Pros: surrounded by nature and quiet
- Cons: still not guaranteed to be quiet! We discovered in Vietnam that you can hear late-night karaoke no matter where you stay if you are unlucky.
Top Pick In Trang An, HoangLong Riverside Homestay is a good option. Rooms from 25 USD are located next to a river with awesome views of cliffs.
Noise Problems In Vietnam
One problem that we, and other travellers, had in Vietnam was noise. It seems like no matter where you book, there is always the chance of construction, dogs or loud neighbours.
The first accommodation we booked in Tam Coc looked great on booking.com. It was away from the centre of Tam Coc, next to rice fields and cliffs. So we thought it would be nice and quiet. But we were wrong!
A neighbour’s dog was chained up right underneath our room and was whimpering and barking all night. The beds were rock hard and had pillows so big they were unusable.
On top of all that, there was a lovely factory right next to the cliffs that we could see from our balcony.
We immediately checked out the next morning and found a great place to stay.
But I am saying all this just to warn you to be careful when making bookings in Vietnam.
There are tonnes of fake reviews on hotels, and noise can always be a problem.
How To Get To Ninh Binh
Most people travelling to Ninh Binh will be coming from Hanoi. It is very easy to travel from Hanoi to Ninh Binh, and there are multiple travel options.
Hanoi to Ninh Binh
- Shuttle: the most common way to get from Hanoi to Ninh Binh. The shuttles are called “limousines’ but they are just vans. There are shuttles leaving regularly throughout the day. You can book online with 12go.asia. Shuttles cost from 7 – 11 USD per person.
- Private Transfer: the most comfortable option. It costs $46 USD per group with pick up at Hoi An Airport or Hoi An Old Quarter.
- Train: Some people like to take the train. But I think it is the worst option. It costs 11 USD and only drops you in Ninh Binh City, then you have to take a grab to your accommodation.
Beware: Drivers in Vietnam can drive like maniacs. They are often speeding and constantly blasting their horn. This is particularly bad in the North of Vietnam. So make sure to read reviews thoroughly.
Two other popular options to travel to Ninh Binh from are Ha Long Bay and Phong Nga.
Ha Long Bay to Ninh Binh
- Shuttle: is the cheapest option, costing from 11 to 17 USD per person. You can book on 12go.asia
- Private Transfer: the most comfortable option 80 USD per group up to 3 people.
Phong Nha To Ninh Binh
- Bus : The best way to get from Phong Nha to Ninh Binh is by sleeper bus. Once again, you can book on 12go.asia. Buses start from as low as 7 USD and can go up to 22 USD. Most of the buses from Phong Nha are overnight buses, but I would recommend getting a bus during the day, as it is hard to sleep with a crazy driver.
Ninh Binh Day Trip From Hanoi?
If you are short on time, then you may be thinking of doing a Ninh Binh Day Trip from Hanoi.
Because we are slow travellers, a day trip is not something we are interested in. But if you are short on time, it could be a good option.
How Many Days In Ninh Binh?
I think that to really get the most out of Ninh Binh, you need a minimum of two full days. If you are on a tight schedule, you can for sure see the highlights even on a day trip from Hanoi.
But to really take your time and experience the sights by yourself, two days is the minimum, but three would be even better.
Best Time To Visit Ninh Binh
The best time to visit Ninh Binh depends on what you prefer: green landscapes, rice fields or cooler weather.
November (Post Rainy Season, When We Visited)
We visited Ninh Binh by chance in November, and I think it is a great time of year to visit. This is just after the rainy season, so the landscape is super green. But there was no rain and plenty of sun.
This is also just after the rice is harvested, so the sunsets reflected beautifully off the flooded fields.
Rice Harvest Seasons
- May to Early July
- September to Mid-October
Many people love to head to Ninh Binh during the rice harvest season. This is a great time for photography if you love the contrast of the golden rice fields with the green mountains.
I thought that our photos were pretty awesome after the harvest! But the golden brown fields will look amazing too.
Winter, January to March (Avoid if you want Sun)
During winter in Northern Vietnam, it is very cloudy and there is almost not Sun. I would personally stay well away because I love the sun!
But some people like this time of year because it is cooler. If you do not like the heat this is a good time of year for you just expect clouds.
Tet Holiday (Late January to Mid-February – Avoid)
Tet is the Vietnamese Lunar New Year. During this time, you should stay well away from Ninh Binh. We say some videos of people who visited during this time and the crowds were insane!
In general, tourist destinations will be incredibly busy during this time all over Vietnam. So you should make your travel plans accordingly.
Does Ninh Binh Live Up To The Reputation? Pros And Cons
We had mixed feelings about our visit to Ninh Binh. The scenery here is stunning, and it has some of the most beautiful views you will see anywhere in the world.
But unfortunately, it is showing signs of over-tourism. There is construction everywhere, and locals are trying to make money from tourists however they can.
This means that you are often in situations where people try to overcharge you, and in Tam Coc, many restaurants cater to tourists and are overpriced with average food.
I may be a bit overly critical, but I just feel like Ninh Binh could be even more magical than it is if the local government made some changes.
That said, you should still go. Despite the problems, I think it is one of the most beautiful places in Vietnam.
If you are planning on visiting more locations in Vietnam, check out our Hoi An articles. We spent a month there, and it was our favourite place to stay in Vietnam long-term.
